Искусство индивидуального стиля

Искусство индивидуального стиля — анализ образов от Marni

Мне часто задают вопрос, что такое индивидуальный стиль и как он создается.
Вот перед нами три образа из лукбука марки Marni.


Имиджмейкер Анна Гор: Формирование индивидуального стиля - детальный анализ образа от Marni

На первый взгляд, может показаться, что это сочетание несочетаемого и странный выбор модели с нестандартной красотой.
Но, давайте по порядку.
Дизайнеры (особенно зарубежные) всегда не случайно выбирают модель для показа своей коллекции.
При качественном кастинге создается впечатление, что вещи как будто специально созданы для модели, на которой они демонстрируются.
Вот пример — три комплекта от Marni.
На первый взгляд они смотрятся немного сумбурными, но при этом интересными и заставляют наши глаза останавливаться на них и разглядывать.

Почему это происходит?
Вещи здесь из разных стилистик, но собраны в один комплект не случайно.
Давайте посмотрим, как сама модель, ее странный, как бы отсутствующий взгляд, растрепанные волосы, даже ее немного округлая форма ног раскрывается в этих комплектах

В первом варианте

Имиджмейкер Анна Гор: Формирование индивидуального стиля - детальный анализ образа от Marni

кончики волос несколько взъерошены, как и мех на горжетке, которая одета таким образом, что кажется случайно съехавшей на бок — и это поддерживает общее впечатление сумбурности.
Ткань костюма, как бы в полоску и по ритму перекликается с кончиками меха, которые на просвет образуют черточки-полоски.
Округлая форма фасона жакета вторит округлой форме ног модели.
Что касается выбора обуви, то здесь он обусловлен во-первых, клатчем — черным с заметной золотой молнией. Во-вторых, черные элементы на босоножках интересно перекликаются по своей форме с черными элементами листьев на жакете.
Так же можно отметить, что ширина ленты горжетки равна ширине черных манжет. Пуговицы на них имеют тот же отблеск, что и пайетки на клатче.

Когда я искала фотографию этого образа в лучшем качестве, я наткнулась на очень похожую картинку. В миниатюре они выглядели почти идентично, но когда я ее развернула, разница стала сразу видна. И я решила включить ее в обзор, чтобы показать это различие.


Имиджмейкер Анна Гор: Формирование индивидуального стиля - детальный анализ образа от Marni

Здесь неожиданно появляется украшение — орхидея и происходит едва заметная перемена в прическе.
Мы можем наблюдать, как фактурный рисунок лепестков цветка копируется в ворсе меха и подчеркивается хаотичными прядями волос девушки.

Имиджмейкер Анна Гор: Формирование индивидуального стиля - детальный анализ образа от Marni

Модель немного щурится и под ее глазами образуются как бы мешочки, а бутон на украшении немного вяловатый — его лепестки похожи по форме на эти мешочки.
Вяло завязанный бант так же перекликается по форме с бутоном.
Раздвоенная прядка за ухом, словно продолжает металлическую часть украшения, а волнообразная форма губ девушки копируется в извилистой форме прядки, падающей на ее лицо.
Ткань здесь очень похожа по цвету и принту на предыдущую костюмную, но она тонкая, шелковистая, отсюда к ней подобрано это украшение — цветок с шелковистыми лепестками.

Возвращаясь к нашим основным образам, можно отметить, что на второй фотографии у уха модели появляется пара слегка подвитых, волнообразных прядок .
Они связаны с водной гладью ее серо-синего костюма. Так же прядки связаны с формой лепестков и листьев цветов на ткани.


Имиджмейкер Анна Гор: Формирование индивидуального стиля - детальный анализ образа от Marni

Можно предположить, что модель бережно держит сумочку, так же как «водная поверхность» этого костюма держит на себе эти цветы. Но так же важную роль здесь играет украшение, шнурок (заметьте, что он по ширине как ремешок сандалий и черные полосы на ремне сумки) и металлическая рамка, в которой закреплен цветок, (как в колыбельке) и ладонь модели как бы повторяет эту «колыбельку» для цветка и держит схожим образом сумку.
Хочу отметить здесь интересный выбор сумки — она как бы вечерняя, но со спортивным ремнем. Почему она здесь такая?
Если мы разделим костюм на две части у нас получится платье и брюки.
Платье из плотной шелковистой ткани, которое мы вполне можем одеть в качестве коктейльного, и тогда к нему мы берем клатч с паетками.
Укороченные брюки с манжетами и четкими стрелками — в них есть что-то от спортивного стиля и ремешок сумки как раз поддерживает эту тему.
С сандалиями та же история — толстая, спортивная подошва взаимодействует с ремнем сумки, а их цветы с ее основной «клатчевой» частью.
Здесь есть еще одна интересная деталь — ремешки сандалий по толщине равны черным полосам на ремешке сумки, а расстояние между ними, равно расстоянию между черными полосками на ней.
Так же можно заметить, что диагональ ремня сумки расположена параллельно краю правого рукава.

Серьги в третьем комплекте выглядят немного хищными, как и прядки из прически модели, как и листья на костюме. В них чувствуются некоторая агрессия и они имеют что-то общее с когтистыми лапами хищной птицы.

Имиджмейкер Анна Гор: Формирование индивидуального стиля - детальный анализ образа от Marni

Сумка одета на руку и создает горизонтальную полосу, такую же, как и ремешки сандалий.
Горизонтали воротника, баски и юбки (похожей на шорты) так же интересно перекликаются по своему размеру.
Цветы на сером фоне костюма выглядят так, как будто это цветы, пробившиеся сквозь асфальт, в них даже чувствуется эта сила, разрушающая на своем пути твердь своим желанием жить.

Мастерство, с которым все это подобрано говорит о большом профессионализме автора, как стилиста. Мы видим пример создания самого настоящего индивидуального стиля, в котором большое значение имеет не только что одето, но и каким образом.

Понятно, что перед нами статика — фотосессия и профессионализм здесь заключается, в том числе и в направленных прядках, позировке модели и тд. В динамике получается задействовать меньше деталей, но всегда они выглядят интересно и завораживающе. И таким же образом вы можете создавать свои особые связи между элементами собственного ежедневного образа.

А здесь можно еще продолжать разгадывать задумку мастера, находя смыслы заложенные в сочетаниях причёски, цвета, ткани, выбора позы… И если вы, дорогие читатели, заметили еще какие-то интересные детали в этой фотосессии — добро пожаловать в комментарии!

Будьте красивы!

Ваш стилист-имиджмейкер, Анна Гор

286 thoughts on “Искусство индивидуального стиля — анализ образов от Marni”

  1. Суперская статья! Попробовала еще найти какие нибудь детали, но мне кажется, вы уже все здесь перечислили :)

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  87. بروس وین در اوایل فیلم بتمن (The Batman) می
    خواهد به ما بگوید که ترس یک ابزار
    است. او در این مورد صحبت می‌ کند که چگونه می ‌توان از حضور بتمن برای
    ترساندن افراد بد استفاده کرد، اما ممکن است مت ریوز
    (نویسنده/کارگردان)، این موضوع را به خاطر رویکرد خود برای راه‌اندازی مجدد ابرقهرمان معروف مورد توجه قرار دهد.
    این فیلم، ترسناک ترین بتمن است.
    درست از صحنه آغازین خشونت آمیز، پیام
    واضح است: این کاپیتان صلیبی مادر شما نیست.

    این فیلم، یک فیلم هیجان‌انگیز روان‌شناختی، خشم‌ آلود
    و مهیج با دوز سنگینی از صحنه های جنایی است و
    باور کنید یا نه، ریوز کاملاً هنری این صحنه ها را اجرا می‌ کند و به شاهکاری خیلی زیبا
    دست می‌یابد.

    بتمن سر جای خود ایستاده است،
    اما همچنان مملو از ارجاعات سینمایی است.
    اکثر فیلم های قبلی بتمن لایو اکشن است.
    رئالیسم سنگدل موجود در این فیلم بیشتر شبیه به فیلم سه گانه کریستوفر نولان است، اما این یک برداشت سینمایی تازه و
    جسورانه از شوالیه تاریکی (Dark Knight) است.

    نقد فیلم بتمن The Batman
    نقد فیلم بتمن The Batman
    در هر صورت، ماهیت پایه این فیلم خیلی شبیه به جوکر 2019 است.
    اما تفاوت اینجاست که تریلر خواکین فینیکس واقعاً نیازی به نام
    شخصیت شرور نداشت تا داستان مردی فقیر را که توسط
    جامعه فراموش شده است را روایت کند.
    از سوی دیگر، بتمن، هنوز هم به طرز شگفت‌آوری وفادار داستان بتمن است.

    این داستان از داستان‌ه ای مختلفی از کمیک‌ها
    به شیوه‌ای متهورانه و در عین حال محترمانه میکس می ‌کند، در حالی که همه اینها با آنچه تا به اینجا در صفحه بزرگ سینما دیده‌ایم خیلی متفاوت است.

    فقط به یک دلیل منشأ این داستان بتمن نیست.

    ریوز می‌داند که ما می ‌دانیم توماس و مارتا وین
    مرده‌اند و به درستی فرض می ‌کند که دیگر نیازی به تیراندازی به آنها نداریم.

    در عوض، ما مستقیماً وارد
    شراکت بتمن و کارآگاهی بتمن
    و جیم گوردون شده ایم. این موضوع آنقدر در داستان بروس وین اتفاق می ‌افتد که صحنه‌هایی را که قبلاً میلیون‌ ها
    بار دیده‌ایم بازخوانی نمی‌ کند، در
    واقع او هنوز باید کارهای زیادی انجام دهد تا اینکه ابرقهرمان تقریباً بی‌عیب و نقصی خلق
    کند. ما آغاز را نمی بینیم، اما شاهد پیشرفت های زیادی هستیم و همچنین برخی از فراخوان های
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  89. سایت‌های شرط بندی از شناخته شده‌ترین سایت‌های موجود
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    حداقل یک بار اسم آن به گوشش خورده است.
    در کشور ایران این سایت‌ها مانند بسیاری از کشور‌های
    دیگر فیلتر هستند اما ما در
    مجموعه وین شد اینجا هستیم تا به طور کامل شما را در این زمینه راهنمایی کنیم و از سایت شرط بندی بدون فیلتر و سایت شرط
    بندی فوتبال تا شرط بندی انفجار، شرط بندی
    انلاین، شرط بندی با ارز دیجیتال، شرط بندی کازینو، شرط بندی والیبال،
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    برای شما حرف بزنیم. اگر اطلاع ندارید سایت شرط بندی چیست
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  91. بسیاری از رشته‌های ورزشی محبوب در میان جوانان ایرانی
    مانند والیبال، بسکتبال، فوتسال، شنا، ژیمناستیک و… نیاز به سالن‌های
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    باشد. برای ساخت سالن‌های ورزشی
    روش‌های متعددی وجود دارد که از جمله آنها می‌توان به ساخت سوله
    ورزشی، ساخت ساختمان‌های بتنی برای تعبیه
    سالن ورزشی و… اشاره کرد. باوجوداینکه راهکارهایی مانند ساخت ساختمان‌های بتنی برای تعبیه سالن
    ورزشی وجود دارد، اما سازندگان ترجیح می‌دهند تا
    از روش سوله سازی بهره ببرند و با
    استفاده از این روش، سالن ورزشی خود را بنا کنند.

    در ادامه این مطلب به بررسی موضوعات مرتبط با ساخت سالن ورزشی می‌پردازیم
    و مواردی مانند مراحل ساخت سوله
    ورزشی، هزینه ساخت سوله ورزشی، نکات مهم در ساخت سوله ورزشی و… را مورد بررسی قرار می‌دهیم.

    ساخت سوله

    مزایای ساخت سوله ورزشی نسبت به انواع
    دیگر سازه‌ها
    در قسمت قبلی بیان کردیم که سازندگان
    و مجریان طرح‌های ساختمانی، ساخت
    سوله ورزشی را به ساخت ساختمان‌های
    بتنی و سایر انواع سازه‌ها ترجیح می‌دهند.
    در این بخش از مطلب ساخت سوله ورزشی به
    بررسی چرایی این موضوع می‌پردازیم.

    قیمت ساخت سوله ورزشی نسبت به هزینه ساخت سایر سازه‌ها پایین‌تر است و این موضوع را می‌توان مهم‌ترین دلیل
    سازندگان برای برگزیدن سوله ورزشی در نظر گرفت زیرا همواره
    در پروژه‌های عمرانی موضوعات مالی در اولویت قرار
    دارند. نکته بعدی که باعث می‌شود تا ساخت سوله ورزشی نسبت به ساخت سایر انواع سازه‌ها ارجحیت داشته باشد، تعریف سوله و عدم وجود ستون در سوله‌ها است.

    همان‌طور که می‌دانید برای برگزاری اکثر
    مسابقات ورزشی نباید هیچ‌گونه ستون یا دیواره‌ای در بخش مورداستفاده ورزشکاران قرار داشته باشد
    و این موضوع باعث شده تا ساخت سوله ورزشی بسیار موردتوجه قرار گیرد.
    از دیگر مزایای استفاده از سوله ورزشی می‌توان به ویژگی جابه‌جایی سوله‌های ورزشی اشاره کرد.

    روش ساخت سوله‌های ورزشی
    پس از اینکه دریافتیم ساخت سوله ورزشی نسبت به سایر انواع سازه‌ها، انتخابی منطقی‌تر و صحیح‌تر است، قصد داریم تا
    روش‌های ساخت این سازه را مورد بررسی قرار دهیم.

    برای ساخت سوله‌های ورزشی می‌توانیم از یکی
    از دو نوع سوله تیر ورق و یا سوله خرپایی استفاده
    کنیم. سوله خرپا باتوجه‌به وزن سبک‌تر و قیمت مناسب‌تر برای
    سوله‌هایی که دهانه آن‌ها بیش از 20 متر است، پیشنهاد می‌شود.
    برای ساخت سوله‌های ورزشی با دهانه کمتر از
    بیست متر نیز می‌توانیم از
    سوله‌های تیرورق استفاده نماییم.

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